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There was a time
when table shuffleboard games were loved only by the
players, not operators, or location owners. The game was
thought of as an "older person 's game" or an "expensive
bar table." Often times table shuffleboard
is confused with "deck/floor" shuffleboard
where players push a stick on the ground to get their
puck to the scoring area. Times have
changed! Table shuffleboard has become a
competitive and growing sport amongst players of all
ages. With the success of Sports
Bars, Brewery Restaurants and Family Fun Centers, table
shuffleboard has caught on with players of all ages.
In addition, many shuffleboard players are putting
these shuffleboards in their own homes. The games
involve skill and, of course, a little luck. FUN
FOR ALL AGES to play!
There are several basic shots used
by players of table shuffleboard. Typically
players start learning the basic shot called "rail
guided shot" and then learn additional type of
releases to enable better execution of more complex
shots or position a puck into a desired area of the
board. One must practice and find the shot(s) and
releases most comfortable for each individual to execute
shots with the most stability at hitting their target or
intended final position of their weight(s). There
is no one way that a weight must be held, guided, or
executed. Styles and grips and shots used are
individual preference.
A brief
description of some of the basic shots used in table
shuffleboard described below: (photos coming
soon for examples of various releases used)
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RAIL
GUIDE
(Straight Rail, Cross Board, Span,
Thumb Shot releases)
The most common shot is where you use the rail as
a guide to place your shot or hit your opponents
weight/puck. Slide the weight/puck with
either hand along the edge of either rail usually
in order to knock off an opponents weight.
You can shoot straight down the rail (typically
referred to as a STRAIGHT RAIL SHOT) or across
board left-to-right or right-to-left (whichever
works best to place your puck or to hit your
opponents weight - typically referred to as a
CROSS BOARD SHOT) using the rail as your guide by
holding one or more fingers along the rail to give
you the stability and guide of your aim.
There are several
execution positions that one might use while using
the rail as your stability and guide for your
aim. Most use two fingers (pinky and ring
finger) to guide their puck's aim on the
rail and use the thumb and forefinger (next to the
thumb) to grip the puck as they release the puck
off the rail. However, the SPAN release and
THUMB shot release are also used along with using
the rail as the shot execution guiding
force. In the SPAN shot, player typically
uses the pinky finger to guide on the rail and
spreads hand holding the weight with the thumb and
forefinger. In the THUMB shot execution, the
thumb is placed in center of weight (versus
typical pinky/forefinger grip) to guide the puck
in the direction desired (down the rail straight
or across the board). |
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FREE-HAND
SHOT
- This is simply a shot carried out
without the use of the rail as a guide from any
desired location on the board. This shot
comes in handy in situations where the use of a
rail shot would be difficult to hit or pass your
opponents weight/puck with use of solely coming
off the rail. |
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DOUBLE
TAKEOUT SHOT - Removal of
two of your opponents weights/pucks with one shot. |
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NUDGE/BUMP
SHOT
- Pushes another weight/puck further
up the board. This shot is typically used to
bump one of your weights/pucks into a deeper
scoring position on the board or to pass your
opponents weight/puck by nudging or bumping your
weight/puck further up the board to pass your
opponents weight/puck. |
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GUARD/COVER
SHOT
- Shot that positions your
weight/puck into the guard zone to protect another
one of your weights/pucks that is typically in the
scoring zone and you are attempting to make it
difficult for your opponent to hit your deepest
weight/puck by placing a shallower cover on your
existing weight/puck. |
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GO-AROUND
SHOT
- When using the
go-around/come-around shot, you attempt to curl
your released weight so that it comes to rest
behind one of your opponents pucks in the scoring
area. |
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SPLIT
SHOT
- Using a puck to strike another so
they both come to a stand-still in the area of
play (without either puck falling off the
board). For instance, you might be able to
hit one of your existing pucks that is sitting
near a higher scoring line so that the existing
puck and the one being shot will remain in the
scoring area or possibly have one or both weights
come to a stand-still in the higher scoring
area. Example: you might slide an
existing one or two scoring weight into the next
scoring zone and have one or both weights split
apart into the scoring area. By splitting
your two weights, then the opponent may have to
make choice of which one to shoot at because they
are split in such a way that would make it
difficult for the opponent to execute a double
takeout. |
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HIT
& ROLL/WICK SHOT - Shot where a puck
touches another stationary puck just enough to
change the played puck's direction. |
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STUN/STICK
SHOT - The purpose
of this shot is to knockoff your opponent's puck
from the board while leaving the puck that you
have shot at a stand-still in the scoring area. |
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HIT
& GO SHOT - The purpose of this shot
is to knockoff your opponent's puck from the board
while your puck also goes off the board (both
pucks leaving the board and scoring area).
Typically, this shot might be desired because you
do not want to stick your released weight and
leave your opponent a go-around shot or on your
last shot before your opponents hammer where you
wish to leave your opponent a clear board to lag
against and give you the hammer coming back in the
next frame. |
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FREEZE
(ROLL & FREEZE) - Using one puck to strike
another so they both come to a stand-still in the
area of play. |
NOTE
1: ANIMATED EXAMPLES: You can view some
of the above described "animated shots" at the
below Shuffleboard Co. UK website (macro flash media
player formatted) by clicking on the following URL link
(click on below link): (These examples are shown on
the 4 zone lined handicap board (1-2-3-4 lines versus
1-2-3 lines found on most boards), but the concept of
the shots is the same whether playing on a 4-line or
3-line board surface. http://www.shuffleboard.co.uk/shuffleboard/flash/menu.html
NOTE
2: The Macromedia Flash Plug-In is a plug-in
that allows you to view animation on the internet. It is
likely that you already have this installed, but if
clicking on above UK site URL fails to display the
shot animation menu, you can download a macromedia
player at below URL (and then try above UK Site link
again after installing the macromedia player) from the
macromedia website at: http://www.macromedia.com/software/flashplayer/
Basically,
you should strive for three main objectives, in order to
win at table shuffleboard:
- Well-Placed
Weight – This is of paramount importance.
Learn to place a Weight as far down the board as
possible, without having it fall off. In Cushion
Board models, learn to place it in the corners, for
the highest scoring zone. This technique is best
attained by frequent practice.
- Attacking
Opponent’s – You may have learned how to
place a Weight in a high-scoring position, but so
may your opponent. Thus, it is of importance to
learn how to attack and knock off your opponent’s
highest scoring Weights, so as to prevent them from
scoring. Frequent practice will help you to develop
this technique also.
- Blocking
Your Own Weights – When you have learned how
to place Weight high in the scoring areas, you will
want to protect it from your opponent’s subsequent
attacks. The method of doing this is called blocking
or screening a Weight, a familiar tactic in football
and basketball play. Simply place your succeeding
Weight behind your leading Weight in such a position
that your opponent will not be able to touch your
leading Weight in his/her attack. Never place a
blocking Weight too close to the scoring Weight,
because a good attacker will then be able to remove
both of from the board.
Develop Use Of
Both Hands
Shuffleboard
is a game that requires ability with either hand.
Beginners will find making shots with one hand just as
simple as with the other, after a bit of practice. One
should learn to favor neither hand, but rather to try to
shoot an equal number of shoots with either hand. Doing
so will greatly improve his/her ability to play.
The Use Of “Side-Wheeling”
On Longboard Models
While it
may seem easier to shoot your Weight from the center of
the board (free-hand), most players eventually learn the
more accurate “side-wheeling” method of delivering a
Weight on the Longboard models. To shoot in this manner,
the player allows the third and fourth fingers of
his/her shooting hand to slide along the side edge of
the playing surface, so as to act as a guide and
balance. His/Her Weight is more easily controlled, and
he/she is assured a much greater degree of accuracy in
placing it.
The Use Of “Top-Of-Board”
Shooting On Cushion Models
Because
angle-shooting is an important part of the Cushion Board
game, a cushion player must learn to shoot from the
center area of the board (Top-of-Board style), from any
angle and with either hand. Thus he/she does not make
use of the side edge of the playing top. Rather, he/she
must rely more acutely on his/her own sense of direction
and judgment in placing Weights.
The Use of “English”
(Twist) On Longboard Models
The use
of English or twist on a Weight being delivered on a
Longboard can greatly aid accuracy. Putting English on a
shot is accomplished by twisting the thumb and
forefinger away from the wrist and in toward the body,
as the Weight is being delivered. Properly applied, it
may greatly improves that Weight’s chance of remaining
on the board, after it makes contact with an opponent’s
Weight. The English acts like a brake, holding it in
place. It also enables players to hide delivered Weights
behind Weights already on the board, thus gaining the
advantage of having a just-delivered Weight well blocked
without further play. English can be of great value when
making draw shots as well. Never use English on Cushion
(aka Bumper or Bank) model shots because it can deflect
Weights erratically when they strike the side cushions.
SOUND WINNING
STRATEGIES
Shooting
First Weight – A Player who shoots first Weight
should try to place it as far down the board as
possible, along either rail. If his/her opponent fails
to knock off that Weight, the first player should then
try to place his/her next Weight in the opposite corner
(similar to split in bowling). This gives him/her two
Weights in good scoring position, yet far enough apart
so that his/her opponent can attack only one of them in
his/her next shot. Following this, the first player
should then block his best scoring or remaining Weight.
Shooting First Weight Against A Good Draw Player – A
player who shoots first Weight against an expert draw
player (one who can place Weights far down the board),
should follow these basic tactics in order to prevent
the draw player from getting high scores:
- The
first player should shoot his/her first Weight so
that it lands in the Deuce zone. The expert draw
player will have to knock off this Weight, rather
than out-draw it.
- In
turn, the first player knocks off his opponent’s
Weight and tries to stay on the board with his
attacking Weight. Each time, the remaining Weight
will lie slightly behind the previous Weight’s
position. This strategy will result in only one
Weight remaining on the board (it will be the expert’s
Weight), but it will lie only in the One zone,
thereby preventing a high round score.
- Assuming
there are no Weights left on the board after each
player has delivered three Weights, the player
shooting first should then attempt to place his/her
final Weight as close to the Trey line as possible,
straddling the same, if he/she is able. Such a
placed Weight makes even the expert’s final draw
shot an extremely hazardous one. Actually, the draw
player will the have but one logical play: to knock
off that Weight in hope to remain on the board with
his/her own.
Shooting
Last Weight – A player who shoots last Weight (it
is known as the hammer) has the advantage in that
round. How he/she uses this advantage depends on his/her
skill. If he/she is a good draw player, he/she can count
on last Weight to out-draw any Weight his/her opponent
may have on the board.
However,
the safest strategy for the novice is to play a
Weight-for-Weight game when he/she has the hammer. That
is, he/she should attempt to knock off anything his/her
opponent has placed well down on the board, and at the
same time try to keep his/her own attacking Weight on
the board (in most cases, unless you do not want to
stick a weight, for instance, that your opponent may
hide a weight with a go-around shot that you may not be
able to hit or hit and stick with your hammer weight).
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